This ride explores the Peninsular Ranges some 65 kilometres inland from San Diego.
The mountains rise to around 2,000 metres and effectively extract any remaining moisture from the air before it descends to the inland deserts.
I started from Pine Valley Village which is on old Highway 80.
This is fortunately ... for cyclists at least ... now bypassed by Interstate Highway 8.
The local coffee store advertises itself as being 'biker friendly' ... let's hope it will be open when I return.
I had chosen to ride the route clockwise. This meant that I had nearly 60 kilometres of hopefully gentle climbing ... before a steep 15 kilometre descent to finish.
On Mount Palomar I'd taken the opposite approach ... and got all the hard climbing done early in the day ... I wonder which way is easier?
I set off westward ... crossed Pine Valley Creek ... and pedalled up the short climb to Guatay.
Several signs warned of the dangers of snow ... and suggested that I should be carrying chains ...
... but I was rather more worried about a couple of snakes sleepily soaking up the sun on the edge of the highway.
Guatay is a small sleepy town but has its own general store which also offers 'well drilling' ... a wooden spoon gallery ... and an antique store 'Just Yesterday' which specialises in old farm equipment.
None of the implements for sale looked to be of much use to a cyclist so I pressed on towards Descanso.
The junction with Highway 79 is festooned with signs pointing out a whole range of routes ...
... accompanied by a plethora of hand painted signs advertising the rival attractions of nearby fruit stalls.
Here I turned north to follow the signs towards Cuyamaca State Park.
The road passes several horse ranches ... as well as the promised fruit stalls.
I was well stocked with energy foods so did not need to take advantage of their offerings.
The road climbs steadily up alongside Descanso Creek passing the Oakzanita Springs Campsite and enters Cuyamaca Rancho State Park.
Here the road bears away from the Creek ... crests a small rise ... and drops down into the Green Valley.
The Sweetwater River flows through Green Valley which at this point widens and has been cleared of trees to provide open pasture.
Much of this area was devastated in the 2003 Cedar Fire ... and the forlorn burnt trunks of trees still stand alongside the road.
Soon the climbing resumes ... and just after an Indian Museum the road turns northwest to follow Cold Stream towards its source on Stonewall Peak.
Stonewall Peak is almost perfectly conical and as the road twists from side to side you are left guessing as to which side of it you will pass.
The road reaches a col alongside the peak where are sited the Park Headquarters and the Paso Picacho Campsite.
A school party was at the campsite enjoying a picnic. They had arrived on a yellow school bus. I had seen these school buses driving all over southern California ... but they always seemed to be empty. This was the first time I'd seen one transporting school kids ... what do they do the rest of the time?
Beyond the campsite the road descends down to Lake Cuyamaca.
On the eastern lake shore is a recreation area supporting camping, fishing and boating.
I was rather more interested in the restaurant and store ... definitely time for a drink.
Continuing on Highway 79 I passed the dam which impounds the lake.
The highway runs round to the most northern point of the lake which ... given the dry weather of recent years ... has shrunk to a fraction of its normal size.
At the top of the lake I turned onto San Diego Highway S1 .. better known as the Sunrise Highway.
According to my newspaper sunrise was at 6:10 ... so I was approximately 8 hours too late to enjoy it.
After just 2 kilometres I crossed the Pedro Fages Trail.
Colonel Fages was dispatched from San Diego in 1772 to search for army deserters.
I'm not sure whether he found any deserters ... but he did discover the Colorado desert.
For much of its length Sunrise Highway parallels the Pacific Crest Trial ... the incredible 4,300 kilometre long hiking trail which runs all the way from Mexico to Canada.
At the Sunrise Trailhead I met Bill who was on his third day out from the Mexican border.
Most walkers tackle the trail from south to north and this first section ... which crosses several deserts ... is generally reckoned to be one of the most difficult.
As I climbed above 5,000' I could catch occasional views out to the west.
From the ridge it is a 3,000' drop down to the Mason and Vallecito Valleys which lie within the Anza Borrego Dessert State Park.
Sunrise Highway winds its way from one side of the crest to the other as it finds its way up to the summit of Laguna Mountain.
Next I entered the Laguna Mountain Recreation Area ... which indicated that the top was not far away ... and I started to dream about summit cafés.
Just after I entered the recreation area I passed through another area ravaged by fire.
The trees were all blackened ... but the undergrowth below was being renewed with vigor.
After passing several campgrounds I arrived at Mount Laguna Village.
Inauspiciously the Visitor Centre and Post Office were closed ...
After all the climbing a rest and a hot drink were really welcome.
I wasn't the only one taking advantage of the store ... another Pacific Crest Trail walker was also stocking up before heading into the trees to camp for the night.
I also met a local couple who had previously cycled the Laguna Triangle ... so we were able to compare notes.
They warned me that there was still a modest climb to the road's summit ... but after that it would be all downhill.
As we were talking the store owner locked up ... I'd made it just in time!
I climbed back on my bike and set off past the Fire Station.
Soon after passing a sign warning of cattle crossing a rather well-fed fox lopped across the road ... followed not long after by a deer.
From the summit Sunrise Highway descends at an almost uniform grade of 5% for 13 kilometres back down to Old Highway 80.
I put on my wind proof jacket and sat up to enjoy the views on the way down.
As I descended the shadows grew longer and the distant mountain crests became simple silhouettes.
Back in Pine Valley the coffee shop was still open ...
On the way back I returned along Sunrise Highway and was able to see the shadows lengthening on the desert floor.
Kirby James
